Visit Bighorn Canyon and the Wind River Scenic Byway on this Bucket List Road Trip
Southeastern Montana doesn’t get the hype or crowds of the western half of the state, but boasts some pretty spectacular landscape and cultural and historic sites. A short drive east from Livingston drops you into the expansive and remote Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, and south from there, the Wind River Canyon. Open roads, small towns, staggering cliffs, geologic wonders and sprawling prairielands define the features of this road trip.
Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area from the arch at Devil Canyon Overlook, photo: Steven Cordes
Our itinerary starts off in the Bighorn Canyon’s South District out of Lovell, Wyoming. An alternative route is from Billings, Montana entering the canyon via Fort Smith. If you enter from the North District, consider booking a boat tour out of the Ok-A-Beh Marina (open Memorial Day to Labor Day) to get access to some of the best sites in the canyon. Note that these two districts are not connected! For the trip we’ve outlined, we’ll spend a couple days exploring Bighorn Canyon then drive south to Thermopolis, Wyoming, home of the world’s largest mineral hot springs, and onto the Wind River Scenic Byway. The drive time between each destination is short enough to cover them all during a long weekend but we recommend spending a couple days in each area.
Photo: Heather Hardman
Itinerary at a Glance:
Day One – Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area
Livingston, MT to Lovell, WY 120 miles
Lovell to Horseshoe Bend CG 15 miles
Day Two - Devil’s Canyon Overlook
Hike, fish or tour historic cultural sites
Day Three - Thermopolis Hot Springs State Park
Lovell to Thermopolis, WY 100 miles
Day Four - Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway
Thermopolis to Boysen State Park 20 miles
Day One
Destination - Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area
You’ll head east from Livingston and get off the interstate in Columbus. Then wind your way through the farming communities and open plains until arriving in Lovell, Wyoming. Grab a bite to eat and any last minute essentials from The Red Apple grocery store in Lovell because there are hardly any services once you hit Hwy 37 into the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area. (It’s worth noting that Hwy 14A — Medicine Wheel Passage Scenic Byway — heading east out of Lovell is equally stunning, but we’ll have to save that for another post.) The Bighorn’s stunning landscape has sheer cliffs towering 1,000 feet above the water and runs adjacent to the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range. The herd of wild horses in the Pryors are of Colonial Spanish American heritage, derived from the horses of Portugal and Spain, and have been present in this rugged mountain region for nearly 200 years.
Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range
Devil Canyon Overlook
On night one in the recreation area, camp at Horseshoe Bend Campground for great views overlooking Bighorn Lake and easy access to the marina. This site can get pretty windy, but you’ll have shelter in one of our campervans. Or follow the road north about fifteen minutes towards Barry’s Landing to set up camp at the Trail Creek Campground. Trail Creek provides better protection as its nestled along a small creek with trees all around. Trail Creek is first-come camping but can get pretty busy during the peak of summer season. When we took this road trip in mid-May, we had the place all to ourselves!
For services in the area, Horseshoe Bend has a camp store open seasonally (Memorial Day through Labor Day) and potable water, and both campgrounds provide well-maintained vault toilets.
Day Two
Exploring the Bighorn National Recreation Area
The Recreation Area encompasses 120,000+ acres straddling the northern Wyoming and southern Montana borders and the Bighorn Canyon is the third longest canyon in the United States. There are numerous hiking trails, scenic overlooks, and historic ranch sites worth visiting in the south district. The Devil Canyon Overlook is a must-see spot for a breathtaking view of the Bighorn River Canyon. Then check out the nearby Sullivan’s Knob trail for a short out-and-back hike that provides another stunning viewpoint.
Head past the overlook and you’ll find a great hike with a bit more distance. The Upper Layout Creek Trail is 4 1/2 miles round trip with 1,300 feet in elevation gain. It takes you into the Pryor Mountains past towering canyon walls and ending at a series of small waterfalls. The access road on your drive in takes you past the Ewing-Snell historic ranch site where you can stop off for a self-guided tour of the old log structures and footbridge. Our campervans can handle the short drive past the ranch site but go slowly! If there are other cars parked at the trailhead, it’ll be a tight squeeze since there’s only room for about four vehicles. After this big adventure day, we recommend heading back to Horseshoe Bend or Trail Creek to set up camp for the night.
Day Three
Destination – Thermopolis Hot Springs State Park
Drive two hours south from the Bighorn Canyon area back through Lovell and onto Thermopolis. By the third day on the road, it’s time for some pampering, and in the Rocky Mountains, that means hot springs! We obviously love campervan road trips, but coupling your travels with a hot springs soak is what truly makes a difference. Rejuvenate yourself at the Thermopolis Hot Springs State Park and soak in the 104 degree therapeutic baths. Hot Springs State Park offers a free bathhouse with indoor and outdoor pools that use mineral water from the springs.
Spend the night in town so you can experience the Wind River Scenic Byway during the day to fully take in the views. For an easy dinner in Thermopolis, we highly recommend Bangkok Thai on Broadway Street. So delicious!! Set up camp at Eagle RV Park & Campground. Keep in mind the season you’re making this road trip because sites can fill up quickly during high traffic times. It’s best to call ahead to reserve a spot as soon as you know your plans.
Thermopolis Hot Springs State Park
Day Four
Destination – Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway
Prepare for a day of world-class fishing along the Wind River or just an amazing day of scenic driving. You can fish the canyon at any of the pull-offs but will need to purchase a WY fishing license AND a Tribal Land Access License to fish or recreate in the canyon. Find more info on licenses here. Everyone who is not an enrolled member of the tribes and who is 15+ years old must have a valid tribal permit on their person while traveling, fishing, recreating, camping, or any other activity on tribal lands.
If you’d like to get guidance from the locals, we recommend Neil Strickland of Owl Creek Flies. He's the best guide in town hands-down. After a day on the water, setup camp on your last night at Boysen State Park Upper Wind River Campground. You’ll finish off this four-day adventure feeling utterly satisfied.
After an epic few days on the road exploring southeastern Montana and northeastern Wyoming, you might be ready to head home or you may want to continue on with the adventure. There’s a lot to see in this region!
After touring the Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway, head back towards Cody, Wyoming to launch into the next phase of your trip. Depending on the season, you could drive the Chief Joseph Highway up to Cooke City and the Lamar Valley of Yellowstone National Park; or take the Beartooth Highway, known as the “most beautiful roadway in America,” over to Red Lodge, Montana. You’ll make your way above timberline overlooking forests, alpine lakes and sheer cliffs. To cap off your road trip with this drive, well, would be hard to top anywhere else in the lower 48.
If you’re running short on time, spend the night in Cody before driving back to Livingston. In Cody, Sunlight Sports is a great resource for hiking or other recreational opportunities. If you can squeeze in a few hours soaking in regional history at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, we promise you will not regret it!
Happy trails friends!
